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jessecomfort

13 Posts

Posted - 17 Dec 2012 :  04:55:23  Show Profile
Hi guys 1 of my 4 Smartmacs is showing a HOT Error Code and will not strike a lamp. I have swapped out a lamp from another fixture and made sure the problem is not the lamp. Does anyone have any ideas on what to look for or what the problem may be?

Thanks!

salomon_freeski

40 Posts

Posted - 19 Dec 2012 :  06:43:26  Show Profile
hot means the lamp has being shutdown (either by a power reset, dmx command) and you are trying to strike it too early, you must let the lamp cooldown about 8 minutes then try striking again
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jessecomfort

13 Posts

Posted - 19 Dec 2012 :  12:26:13  Show Profile
I talked to Martin Support...They think its the Lamp Detection PCB Board (PN # 62006024) which is what gives that error. I have ordered the part and time will tell...I will post back with my findings for future reference.
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sonygraf

4 Posts

Posted - 24 Jan 2013 :  20:57:23  Show Profile
In the Lamp Detection PCB Board (PN # 62006024), change and replace capacitor C1 220nF/250V, this capacitor fault.
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Chadster1976

9 Posts

Posted - 03 Mar 2013 :  10:12:33  Show Profile
I too, am having similar issues. I would be interested to hear if your PCB replacement took care of the issue or if it was something else.
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jessecomfort

13 Posts

Posted - 06 Mar 2013 :  03:02:39  Show Profile
Yes, after changing out the lamp detection board I have had no more issues.
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dramatechws

2 Posts

Posted - 25 Mar 2014 :  09:36:09  Show Profile
How easy is it to replace the board?
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dramatechws

2 Posts

Posted - 17 Jun 2014 :  12:55:07  Show Profile
OK, bought two new boards, swapped the first one out and - same 'hot' message virtually from power-up! The lamp doesn't even strike! Anyone any further ideas? is there perhaps a sensor somewhere in the lamp housing?
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4krazyman

2 Posts

Posted - 30 Sep 2014 :  19:50:32  Show Profile
I too am having the same issue with a 250 Krypton. Thanks for the advice will let you know how it works out.
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4krazyman

2 Posts

Posted - 30 Sep 2014 :  21:23:20  Show Profile
Check your voltage settings on the ignitor pcb. I found that the unit in question was set to US voltage 120v and 50hz which caused the error. I simply switched to 60hz and it fired right up. UK voltage obviously would need to be(and correct me if I am wrong)230v50hz? It's been a while since I have crossed the pond. Hope this helps.
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Chadster1976

9 Posts

Posted - 16 Dec 2014 :  16:25:41  Show Profile
So I have some interesting things to report...

After having repeated problems with these lamp strike boards on a majority of my SmartMACs (5 out of 7), I decided to change all of them out. This took care of things for a little while.

After experiencing another lamp malfunction on a different unit, I tried testing the C1 replacement idea suggested by Sonygraf earlier in this thread. So far I can report many hours without incident. Recently, I have put two other units into testing with this same replacement procedure. Everything *seems* to be functioning normally - but I am prepared for possible failure just in case.

Here are a couple of notes for everyone's consideration...

1. All 3 original caps removed from 3 different lamp boards have had different values - even the new boards I bought as replacement from Martin. they range in value from 160nF down to 40nF. All are off by lots more than 20% from one another. I am very surprised to see such a great variance in range between these capacitors, even after pulling one from a "new" board sent directly from Martin.

2. Replacement caps are a similar but newer series by Vishay that are a little larger voltage handling (310V AC instead of 250V) and slightly larger physically, but still fit in the space provided on the board.

3. These replacement caps have been functioning in three of my units for hours ranging from 220 down to 40 without incident so far. As I stated earlier I am prepared if there is a problem.

I would be interested in finding out if Sony or anyone else has made this cap switch and what kind of results you have had.

Let me also state that I am not performing these tests lightly - I am prepared if this messes up my fixtures. I would not suggest that this mod be performed if you are extremely reliant on your fixtures or have no way to replace them. In other words, do this at your own risk with caution.
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Raúl Bolos Varios

1 Posts

Posted - 10 Feb 2015 :  17:48:43  Show Profile
Hola Sonygraf (Oscar), comentaste la sustitución de un condensador en la placa de sensado de lampara. ¿Es la placa que aloja el relé o la que hay justo encima?.
Gracias.
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Richard

2 Posts

Posted - 13 Apr 2015 :  22:18:53  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Chadster1976

I too, am having similar issues. I would be interested to hear if your PCB replacement took care of the issue or if it was something else.



This information has been really helpful, I have just changed the capacitor c1 as advised, I also noticed in test mode the pan and tilt did not move prior to changing the capacitor, good indicator.
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